I’m a fan of hand knit dishcloths. Every time I use one, I’m amazed at how long they last.  And how much better they are at scrubbing than manufactured dishcloths.

Although they can be fancy with embossed-looking images, they don’t have to be. They can be as simple as garter stitch. I just finished knitting one in about three hours.

Grandma's Favorite Knitted Dishcloth

I used a pattern that’s been around for years. It’s called Grandma’s or Grandmother’s Favorite Dishcloth.

Its name suits. It’s a quick and easy knit. All you need to know is how to: cast on, knit, yarn over, decrease, and cast off.  That’s it.

It can be customized if you get tired of the basic pattern, as explained later in this post.

Grandma’s Favorite Dishcloth

Materials: Approximately 1 ounce of cotton worsted weight yarn and 1 pair of knitting needles in appropriate size.

So what’s an appropriate needle size? Whatever size you want to make the knitting as tight or as loose as you want. I knit loosely, and usually use size 5 or 6 needles. Many knitters use size 8.

Instructions:

Row 1: Cast on 4 stitches.

Row 2: Knit 2 stitches, yarn over, knit to end of row.  Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 44 stitches on your needle.

Next Row (Decrease Row): Knit 1 stitch, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit to end of row. Turn.

Repeat this row until you have 4 stitches left. Cast off.  Break yarn, and pull it through last stitch to knot. Weave in yarn ends.

Knitter’s Tip: If the dishcloth doesn’t look quite square, try gently pulling it into shape. It’s not unusual for the first and second halves to look different when the dishcloth first comes off the needles.

So what are some easy variations?

• Crocheting a Hanging Loop
  You can add a look by not breaking yarn when you get to the last stitch. Using a crochet hook, chain 8, attaching the chain to the last stitch or corner or next to the last stitch. Break yarn and weave in ends as above.
• Adding a Slipped Stitch Edging
  You can make a lovely slipped stitch edging by slipping the first stitch of each row as if to purl.  My video gives you the slipped stitch edging knitting instructions.
• Knitting in Reverse Garter Stitch
  If you want practice purling or just like to purl more than knit, you can knit the entire dishcloth in reverse garter stitch instead of garter stitch.

  To knit Grandma’s Favorite Dishcloth, the basic instructions become:
  Row 1: Cast on 4 stitches.
  Row 2: Purl 2 stitches, yarn over, purl to end of row.  Turn.
  Repeat Row 2 until you have 44 stitches on your needle.
  Next Row (Decrease Row): Purl 1 stitch, purl 2 together, yarn over, purl 2 together, purl to end of row. Turn.
  Repeat this row until you have 4 stitches left. Cast off.  Break yarn, and pull it through last stitch to knot. Weave in yarn ends.
  This post gives you more detailed reverse garter knitting instructions.

• Changing the size
  Want a larger or smaller dishcloth? Then increase to 46 or 42—or whatever sizes you want—before decreasing.
  You can even make square dishtowel by enlarging the pattern. You may however need more than one ball of yarn.
  Knitters tip: Hand knit dishtowels seem to absorb water better than store-bought ones.
• Using your imagination to customize—
  If you want to knit in colors, you can knit stripes. You may either find you have a lot of ends to weave in, or if you carry the yarn from row to row you may want to crochet a border of single crochet or knit an I-cord border to cover the yarn loops.
  If you change colors after either 2 or 4 rows the yarn carried will be short lengths. You can also make wider stripes of more rows, breaking the yarn between stripes.

So now you have the basic instructions and five easy variations.

Another variation of the garter stitch is my Garter Ripple Kitchen Set, based on an easy lace stitch called Feather and Fan.

Garter ripple kitchen set

It’s a great way to brighten up your kitchen or to practice lace knitting on a small project:

I’m typing while wearing one fingerless mitten.

Why?

Well, my fingers were cold and I decided to experiment. I was curious to know how fast I’d notice a difference between the two hands, I decided to try just one.

Striped fingerless mitten

In less than 10 seconds I noticed an improvement in the hand wearing the mitten. Wow! What a surprise! I always thought they’d warm the hands but not the fingers. Now if I could just knit that fast.

While I like mittens and gloves, fingerless ones are better sometimes. For example, when you’re working at a keyboard, wearing regular mittens make typing impossible. Most gloves are cumbersome — at best. If your fingers don’t slip off the keys while wearing them, gloves are often bulky or just don’t feel right.

Fingerless mittens or gloves solve these problems.  They allow you to use the keyboard or mouse on a computer comfortably and don’t get in your way.

What’s the difference between fingerless gloves and fingerless mittens? While I don’t have an official answer from the Fashion Gurus, my take is that fingerless gloves have four openings for individual fingers. Their length can be as short as one or two rows, or go all the way to the fingertips.  Fingerless mittens, on the other hand, have a single opening for four fingers. And they’re definitely faster to knit!

While fingerless glove knitting instructions can be complex and best suited for an experienced knitter, fingerless mittens can be quick and easy. Yes, for beginners, too!

So what are the steps for knitting Easy Garter Stitch Fingerless Mittens?

1. Check the gauge. The gauge for this pattern is 3.5 stitches per inch in garter stitch. I used Caron’s One Pound Yarn in Sunflower (yellow) and Royalty (blue). It’s a worsted weight acrylic and knits up soft. I used size 9 needles.

2. Measure your hand. Using a tape measure or even a piece of yarn, measure around your palm above the thumb.

3. Cast on:

• 6.5-inch hand = 22 stitches
• 7-inch hand = 24 stitches
• 7.5-inch hand = 26 stitches
• 8-inch hand = 28 stitches
• 8.5 inch hand = 30 stitches

Knitting Tip: Check the size as you knit. It’s amazing how many times the knitting can vary once you actually cast on the rows.  Although mittens are fairly forgiving, it’s still easier to make adjustments early in the knitting rather than after the mitten is almost finished.

4. Knitting pattern:

Row 1: Slip first stitch as if to purl. Knit across rest of row. Turn.

Repeat Row 1 for desired length from cuff to top of mitten.

Change colors to add stripes if you wish.  I changed colors on the wrong side after four rows of blue and two of yellow:

Closeup of stripe pattern in knitting instructions

Slipping the first stitch as if to purl makes a slipped edge garter stitch, which I’ve explained further in my free video knitting instructions.

5. Bind off loosely with your favorite method. Break yarn.

6. Sew up the side seam, leaving an opening for the thumb. (Hint: Trying on the mitten after sewing up part of the seam helps you place the thumb opening, customizing its fit!)

7. Weave in the yarn ends.

While you can add color by knitting stripes, another easy method is called mosaic knitting.  You carry only one color at a time and can make interesting patterns with it:

Mosaic knitting fingerless mittens

This particular pattern makes a thicker mitten. Which is probably why I decided to make a pair!

Close-up of right side

My PDF pattern for Easy Two-Color Mosaic Fingerless Mittens is now available on Ravelry.

Disclosure: I have a marketing connection to a brand, topic or product herein. Through the use of affiliate links contained herein, I may collect fees from purchases made. cmp.ly/5/kf4rlc

Have you recently had unusual challenges?

Maybe it’s been the economy. Your family. Or the weather.

So far this winter has been unusually cold here. It’s been 20 to 30 points below normal. Water frozen outside in the morning — and even the afternoon some days. This is the longest stretch of cold weather in this area in about a century. Of course, the cold weather brings it’s own challenges. Like, not one but two mice decided my dryer vent was a nice entrance into my warm house.

At least I hope it’s only two!

This week, my problems challenges became very small. The earthquake in Haiti dwarfs many concerns.

Crafters helping Haiti

If you’re  like me, your first instinct is to help. But how? And where?

Knitters and crocheters have a unique opportunity. Sure, we can donate money to appropriate places.

We can also donate our handiwork.

Ravelry has a new group that is looking for afghan squares. Knitted or crocheted. Sizes from 6 inches to 14 inches are being offered. The group even has links for knitting instructions.

I like the idea of making a square or perhaps a few and sending them. Imagine hundred or thousands of knitters and crocheters sending just one or two squares. And they can be made from your stash, or even leftovers.

The group, Hugs for Haiti, wants washable squares. It looks as though that’s the main requirement.

Here’s the first square I’m working on:

Log cabin afghan square in progress

Log cabin is one of the free patterns the group links to. I like log cabin quilts, and knitting a log cabin square reminds me how much rebuilding the Haitians need to do.

If you don’t feel up to making a complex square, make a simple one.

Free garter stitch square pattern

Garter stitch is easy to make a square. Its Rule of Thumb is two rows for each stitch makes a square. So, if you cast on 10 stitches and knit 20 rows you have a square. Or approximately. Usually I need to knit a couple of rows less than twice the number I cast on when I’m knitting with acrylic or cotton. It’s still easy to make a square.

For example, if you want to make a 12 inch square and have 4 stitches per inch: cast on 48 stitches.

4 stitches / inch X  12 inches = 48 stitches

Knit approximately 48 ridges, or 96 rows. In my case, it’s 44 or 46 ridges. Bind off.

A slipped stitch edging helps the square lie flat, and more square. Here are my video knitting instructions.

Join Hugs for Haiti now: you do need to be a Ravelry member to join. Ravelry is free and well worth your time if you’re a crafter.

Sprucey Lucy Knee High Socks

free knitting pattern available from Wendy Knits.

"Baby" enjoying his new sweater

Follow-up to this post.

Participating in Wordless Wednesday.  Well, it’s almost wordless!

Well, after 6 months — 4 of which they sat on a shelf waiting for me to be inspired to knit them again — I finally finished my knee socks!

They are my first very own hand knit knee socks, custom-made using several sock knitting instructions which I combined. I do like the toe-up knitting instructions, because the sock can be tried on as you’re knitting. That way, changes can be made immediately and — at least theoretically — keeps the frogging to a minimum!

Fairisle knee socks from multiple knitting instructions

The patterned sock yarn is: Austermann Step Sock Yarn in the Sunset Fairisle colorway. The Fairisle pattern is in the dyeing of the yarn, so it’s like a self-striping yarn: except better! It’s soft, treated with Jojoba and Aloe Vera extracts. While knitting I noticed how soft it is on the hands. According to the label, the extracts and softening power last through hundreds of washings. I’m thinking they’ll be very helpful in the dry winter weather!

The solid toes, heels, and cuff are Wildfoote Luxury Sock Yarn in Temple Turquoise. The Fairisle colors really seem to “pop” with the contrast of the solid yarn sections.

There’s enough yarn left over, that one skein of the Austermann Step Sock Yarn probably would have been enough without the contrast.  Wow! One skein for a pair of knee socks for size 10-1/2 feet!

Yarn bought according to knitting instructions & now left over from several knitting projects

So, when the knitting instructions are complete, what to do with the left over yarn? Options include:

• Saving the yarn for later because sometimes the right project just doesn’t immediately jump out. Especially after finishing a big project, sometimes another yarn is calling to be knit, yes?
• Starting a project, and adding yarn as you get it from future as yet unspecified projects. This option adds the risk of maybe having an incomplete project that will end up either incomplete for a long time, or possibly being unraveled. Of course, if you like to work this way, it’s something to consider. This also could run the risk of adding to your yarn stash if you end up buying yarn to finish a project you can’t stand to remain incomplete another minute.
• Finding a small project now. After finishing a big project, the idea of a project that can be completed in an evening or two before starting another larger project has a certain appeal.

Needless to say, I decided to start looking for a small project. And one found me:

Tiny mitten from leftover sock yarn

A tiny mitten! Jumping in without a pattern is always an adventure in itself. After making enough mittens to have memorized the basics of a mitten, it was easy. The Fairisle yarn makes a lovely pattern in stockinette stitch, without a great deal of thought. And since the mitten needed to look like a mitten but not necessarily fit anyone or anything, it’s a very forgiving project.

Now what to do with it?

It could be a doll mitten, although I quit playing with dolls some years ago.

How about a Christmas mitten? It — or perhaps a pair with an attached cord — would make a neat homemade ornament for a Christmas tree. And, it could also be used on the outside of a package as decoration: to be used by the recipient as an ornament.

Would you like a copy of the pattern? Subscribe in the box on the sidebar to get your free knitting bag pattern immediately, and you’ll get my Tiny Mittens pattern a couple of days later.

Awhile ago, I started a pair of socks.

Knee socks in progress

Actually, they’re the first pair I’ve ever made for myself. And I wanted them to both fit, and to be knee socks.

I like knee socks. When wearing pants,they often hike up when I sit down, and like to still have my leg covered. Recently I’m finding it harder to get knee socks in the stores or even online. So, I decided to make it myself. Many sock patterns either end just above the ankle, or seem to think calves are straight up and down. Results: they don’t fit.  Besides, after spending the time knitting a pair of socks, I’m not ready to have them sit in a drawer.

The problem is, I’ve had trouble finding a pattern that explains it all. I like the toe-up socks, because I can try one on as I knit, making adjustments as necessary. For a novice sock knitter, that’s important. And I have a high instep, so need to include that adjustment. Then I wanted a reinforced heel stitch, plus the adjustment for a calf diameter larger than my ankle. I also wanted a ribbed pattern because I felt it would hug my leg better, and make up for any minor miscalculations.

Finally, I wanted a non-binding cast off. Casting off regularly results in a tight band, actually too tight to get over my calf.

So, how many different knitting instructions and knitting patterns did I use for knitting socks?

1. Starting with WendyKnit’s Sport Weight Toe-up Gusset Heel Sock free knitting instructions. My gauge was closer to this even though I used sock weight yarn.
2. Using my own method to cast on the toe stitches. Why? Because the other methods I found just weren’t right. The stitches were to tight to knit, the method too complicated, or one even seemed like it would work better with three hands not two!
3. Ribbing by using the free 1940s pattern for Spiral Bed Socks knitting instructions.
4. Adjusting the gusset for a high foot arch with WendyKnit’s knitting instructions for a high instep.
5. Knitting an old-fashioned reinforced heel with the stocking heel stitch knitting instructions.
6. Adding stitches for the calf increase. Rather than using some complicated calculations I found online, I decided to try increasing two stitches every 7 rounds, which is when the repeat changes. My plan was to keep checking the fit and adjust as needed. It fits fine!
7. Creating my own cast-off, which may or may not wear well. I’ll let you know.

And the result, is:

Finished sock made with 6 different knitting instructions

I opted not to make a separate cuff at the top. The ribbing seems to hold it fine for now. I’m happy with sock as is.

Now to finish the second one!

For more free patterns, check out my Free Goodies Page.

When you buy enough yarn to finish a project, there’s often some left over.

The alternative, however, is to not have enough yarn.  Which can be even more frustrating … especially if you’re trying to match dye lots.  Or, if you’re blessed with hand-dyed, maybe there is no more of that dye lot.

After a project, sometimes there’s just not enough of a ball left to hold its shape.  Leaving it unwound invites all kinds of tangled messes before you can use it.

For years, I rewound yarn the way I was taught as a child.  You may have been taught the same way: wind around three or four fingers, and then slip it off and wind a ball.  You’ve probably noticed the problem with this method: when using the yarn from the center, the center tends to pop out in a clump, sometimes with more yarn than you want … and sometimes with a tendency to tangle.

Of course, a ball winder will alleviate this problem: sometimes though it’s not convenient or in the budget.  My sister, who spins, has a short dowel she uses to wind her yarn.  She makes lovely yarn balls with it.

However, I keep forgetting to look for a dowel in my infrequent trips to the hardware store.  So, I decided to improvise.

With a pencil!

Here’s the technique:

First, you wind a strand down and around the bottom.  Since this is a small ball of yarn, I didn’t use the whole length of the pencil.

Wind horizontally next …

Then just wind your ball …

The yarn will slip off the pencil (or dowel), with the center loose enough to easily use.

The pencil was fine for small balls of yarn, but I needed something larger for bigger balls …

Next I tried a highlighter. Checking first to be sure it wasn’t leaking!

Not quite ideal because the diameter was larger than optimal, and it’s a bit difficult to pull off the highlighter.

A tapered end would work better, and the ball would slip off more easily. And, inspiration struck!

One of my size 15 tips from my Denise Knitting Needles from Alpaca Direct! It’s the right diameter — more or less — and its tapered ends make sliding the ball off smooth and easy. Instead of wrapping the yarn around the end of the needle tip, I just made a U shape to start, then wound the ball.

And voila …

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When you’re bored with knitting the same old pattern, maybe it’s time to try something more challenging …

Like Garterlac!

This is my first attempt:

Yes, it’s a work in progress. If you like the challenge of entrelac, but find the stockinette (stocking) version too flat or like both the front and back to look woven, you might like garterlac. Like garter stitch, it’s a nice thickness for dishes.  And dishcloths make a nice practical square to try out a new pattern.

It’s not hard to envision using garterlac for a scarf, an afghan, or a pillow top.

If garterlac is more challenging than you want to attempt your first time out, you might consider this dishcloth:

It’s a smaller version of the baby blanket in Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop. I started with 14 stitches. It has a woven seam, which may not suit everyone for a dishcloth.  Still, it’s a good way to try out the pattern, without making an entire blanket.

Still too complex? Well, you could try the Mitered Scrubby, substituting one strand of yarn and casting on 40 stitches, or the number for the size you want.

Most knitters are familiar with the Diagonal Dishcloth Pattern, also often known as Grandma’s Dishcloth, or some variation of that name. It’s actually garter stitch worked on the bias. And very good practice for garter stitch, increases and decreases.

My version is knit on size 7 needles or size for gauge you like.

Cast on 3 stitches
Row 1: Knit 1, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over, knit 1
Row 2: Knit 5
Row 3: Knit 1, yarn over, knit 3, yarn over, knit 1
Row 4: Knit 7

Continue in garter stitch, to increase one stitch each odd row just after first and before last stitch. Knit all stitches in even rows.
When side edges measure desired size (35 stitches on row in the one I knitted) begin decrease rows:

SKP = Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch, pass slip stitch over knit stitch

Odd Rows: Knit 1, SKP, Knit to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1
Even Rows: Knit all stitches

Bind off when row has 3 stitches.  Finish off, leaving an end long enough to weave in. Weave in ends.

Tip: You can vary where the increases and decreases are placed, such as knit 3 yarn over, knit to last 3 stitches, yarn over, knit last three stitches. Similarly, the decreases would be placed after the first 3 knit stitches and before the last 3. This keeps the edges consistent.

And of course, there’s always easy garter stitch.

The cotton worsted weight yarn is Sugar ‘n Cream Bronze Blue Culinary Colors-3 oz.

Ever have one of those days?

You know, you search for a clean dishcloth. Only to discover …

Most of them are worn, many beyond repair. Amazing how they all seem to go simultaneously. And no, I don’t think it’s a conspiracy.

More likely, I wait until I need more than one, and then make a bunch at a time.

Dishcloths are interesting. They can be as plain or fancy as you like. Since I’ve recently been working with garter stitch, I thought I’d see how many variations of garter stitch I could make.

This is one of my favorite patterns. I start with how ever many stitches I want, using the size needles I feel like, and basically knit a square … unless I feel like making an oblong.

Then I bind off.

The diagonal knit dishcloth is a favorite with many folks. I see it listed often as “Grandma’s Dishcloth Pattern” or “Old-Fashioned Dishcloth Pattern.” That’s not to say Grandma is always old-fashioned of course.

Waffle Stitch is probably not technically garter stitch. It does use only knit stitches with no purling, so I’m including it. I like the thickness, and it makes a nice scrubbing dishcloth.

Mitered dishcloth is fun. Mostly because I like to start with the long end, and decrease as I go. It’s lovely to work fewer and fewer stitches as the square grows. Sure makes the project seem to be going faster, anyway. The pattern is here, just use one strand of yarn and adjust the number of stitches to make the size you want.

Rippled dishcloth is a stitch I modified. From the ripple afghan stitch, I changed it to a garter stitch ripple. Hey, it’s allowed! After all, it is only knitting!

After eight different patterns, I decided I have enough dishcloths for awhile. And, I still have some yarn left over. At least until I decide to knit some more.

I used my size seven Denise Knitting Needles from Alpaca Direct. I still smile whenever I use them because I enjoy them … like that they’re made in Virginia … and Alpaca Direct’s free shipping for orders over $50 always makes me smile.

The cotton worsted weight yarn is Sugar ‘n Cream Yarn Twists-Rose Twists and Sugar ‘n Cream Bronze Blue Culinary Colors-3 oz.

The ripple dishcloth is part of my Garter Ripple Kitchen Set, and available here.

Looking at my collection of darning needles, I realized I needed more organization.

Each needle is blunt. The good news is blunt needles are harder to poke yourself with. The bad news is, they don’t poke through the fabric on my pin cushion. <Sigh …>

Darning needles — and most sewing needles — come in cardboard and plastic packages.  To use the needles, the plastic usually needs to be ripped from the cardboard. While the plastic can be used as a tray, it’s a short-term not a long-term solution.

As I was considering what to do with my needles, I suddenly remembered one of my mother’s pin cushions.

It’s made from a discarded aerosol can top, and a crocheted oblong that’s rolled into the top. Darning needles easily go into the crocheted stitches. Should be easy enough to substitute a knit oblong for the crocheted. But then, I realized I don’t have any empty tops lying around. Probably because I rarely buy aerosol cans any more.

But I do have several measuring cups from laundry detergent.

Its sides aren’t square. I like the clear plastic that will show more of the knitting.

So, it was off to my basket of yarn scraps, and my knitting needles. I decided to make as much of a customized roll as I can. I love the idea of using bright colors. Hopefully they will make the pin cushion be more visible on my cluttered work surface.

My knitting gauge is 7 stitches in 2 inches, with size 7 needles and worsted weight wool. Actually the wool is hand spun doubles.

I cast on 8 stitches, and started garter stitch with a slipped stitch garter edging. The edging instructions are in the video on this web site. I made a slipped stitch along one edge, and changed colors as I ran out of yarn or as it suited me. The slipped stitch edge is the top.  All color changes were made along  the bottom edge.

I knit 10 inches of garter stitch. I bound off 3 stitches on the edge opposite the slipped stitch. Then continued garter stitch with the slipped stitch edging on 5 stitches for another 6-1/4 inches. Followed by binding off the remaining stitches.

I fit the roll into the container as I worked. I didn’t weave in any ends, just tucked them into the roll.

And, voila!

And another view:

I scrunched the roll into the plastic cup. The knitted roll very nicely fit inside it.

With a single project I’ve organized my darning needles, and recycled (reused) an otherwise non-recyclable.

Storage Tip:I like to store all my needles with yarn or thread attached. When one drops, they’re so-o-o much easier to find!

You can download a free pdf of this pattern here.

Now that my darning needles are organized, it’s time to tackle the clutter on my workspace …

Check out the fiber artists at Alpaca Farm Girl’s Fiber Arts Friday.