I used to think I was allergic to wool. Every time I used it, my fingers would itch and it felt very scratchy.

More recently, though I’ve found it’s not the wool: it’s the processing!  Some processed fibers still are too scratchy, but the lesser processed fibers work just fine.  Good thing too, or I wouldn’t have been able to finish my latest project.

Here’s what’s left of two balls of handspun that wasn’t dyed. It’s from Brown Sheep Mills mill end roving, and is very soft to knit.

Homespun yarn natural colors

It was a real pleasure to knit this yarn.

I decided upon a lace scarf.

As you can see, the lace pattern isn’t very prominent:

Close-up of lace pattern

That’s because the handspun yarn “blooms” and fills in the spaces. It does, however, make a very nice warm scarf.

The original knitting instructions made a very wide scarf in this yarn. So, I ended up frogging a bunch of it, and re-knitting it in a narrower width.

And yes, knitting a swatch first helped me to decide the pattern, yarn, and needles worked well together.

The pattern comes with instructions on how to resize it. It’s The Columbine II Seamen’s Scarf in Stahman’s Shawls and Scarves: Lace Faroese-Shaped Shawls from the Neck Down & Seamen’s Scarves. This book has multiple levels of skill for the projects. I may just end up knitting several of the projects as I practice my lace knitting.

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I’m typing while wearing one fingerless mitten.

Why?

Well, my fingers were cold and I decided to experiment. I was curious to know how fast I’d notice a difference between the two hands, I decided to try just one.

Striped fingerless mitten

In less than 10 seconds I noticed an improvement in the hand wearing the mitten. Wow! What a surprise! I always thought they’d warm the hands but not the fingers. Now if I could just knit that fast.

While I like mittens and gloves, fingerless ones are better sometimes. For example, when you’re working at a keyboard, wearing regular mittens make typing impossible. Most gloves are cumbersome — at best. If your fingers don’t slip off the keys while wearing them, gloves are often bulky or just don’t feel right.

Fingerless mittens or gloves solve these problems.  They allow you to use the keyboard or mouse on a computer comfortably and don’t get in your way.

What’s the difference between fingerless gloves and fingerless mittens? While I don’t have an official answer from the Fashion Gurus, my take is that fingerless gloves have four openings for individual fingers. Their length can be as short as one or two rows, or go all the way to the fingertips.  Fingerless mittens, on the other hand, have a single opening for four fingers. And they’re definitely faster to knit!

While fingerless glove knitting instructions can be complex and best suited for an experienced knitter, fingerless mittens can be quick and easy. Yes, for beginners, too!

So what are the steps for knitting Easy Garter Stitch Fingerless Mittens?

1. Check the gauge. The gauge for this pattern is 3.5 stitches per inch in garter stitch. I used Caron’s One Pound Yarn in Sunflower (yellow) and Royalty (blue). It’s a worsted weight acrylic and knits up soft. I used size 9 needles.

2. Measure your hand. Using a tape measure or even a piece of yarn, measure around your palm above the thumb.

3. Cast on:

• 6.5-inch hand = 22 stitches
• 7-inch hand = 24 stitches
• 7.5-inch hand = 26 stitches
• 8-inch hand = 28 stitches
• 8.5 inch hand = 30 stitches

Knitting Tip: Check the size as you knit. It’s amazing how many times the knitting can vary once you actually cast on the rows.  Although mittens are fairly forgiving, it’s still easier to make adjustments early in the knitting rather than after the mitten is almost finished.

4. Knitting pattern:

Row 1: Slip first stitch as if to purl. Knit across rest of row. Turn.

Repeat Row 1 for desired length from cuff to top of mitten.

Change colors to add stripes if you wish.  I changed colors on the wrong side after four rows of blue and two of yellow:

Slipping the first stitch as if to purl makes a slipped edge garter stitch, which I’ve explained further in my free video knitting instructions.

5. Bind off loosely with your favorite method. Break yarn.

6. Sew up the side seam, leaving an opening for the thumb. (Hint: Trying on the mitten after sewing up part of the seam helps you place the thumb opening, customizing its fit!)

7. Weave in the yarn ends.

While you can add color by knitting stripes, another easy method is called mosaic knitting.  You carry only one color at a time and can make interesting patterns with it:

Mosaic knitting fingerless mittens

This particular pattern makes a thicker mitten. Which is probably why I decided to make a pair!

Close-up of right side

My PDF pattern for Easy Two-Color Mosaic Fingerless Mittens is now available on Ravelry.

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As a child, I learned to knit.

My knitting was a mixture of: what my mother taught me, what I learned from a knitting pamphlet, and my own invention. Amazingly enough, it worked. Actually, it worked quite well. That is, until I attempted circular knitting and lace.

They were much less forgiving than knitting, purling, and even cables.

Over the past few years I’ve been seeking new ways (for me) to cast on. In retrospect my original cast-on either never made it to the knitting manuals or I remembered it wrong. Which is probably why it was so difficult challenging.

When I learned a two needle cast on by knitting the stitches on, my heart leaped. Now I could cast-on by simply knitting stitches on the needle. How cool is that?

Recently, I found the long-tail cast-on in Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop. Not only is it fast, it’s almost effortless to keep the stitches consistent and even. Once again, I’m in awe of Elizabeth’s knitting expertise.  Of course, she may not have invented this cast-on.

Its added bonus: with the cast-on, your first row of knitting is complete. Now that’s really clever!!

Knit side row 1 long-tail cast-on

Purl side long-tail cast-on

The pictures are a bit blurry, so the completed row may not be obvious. It’s there, though!

Here’s a picture of a simple afghan square I made with the long-tail cast on:

Here’s the link for this simple afghan square’s free knitting instructions.

So, why are the long-tail cast-on knitting instructions popular?

• You can cast-on quickly.
• The stitches slip on and can be adjusted so all stitches are even without hours of practice!
• Once you finish your cast-on row, your first row is knit. So you can start with row 2: a real time saver!
• It can be started without the first stitch being a slip knot. Combined with the even stitches, this makes a very straight border.
• It’s easy to learn.

And yes, it’s already one of my favorite cast-on methods! My only question: Why didn’t I know about it before now?

Oh, and here’s my completed Log Cabin Afghan Square, and a second version.  It’s definitely faster to piece them for a quilt!

Completed Log Cabin Afghan Square

Log Cabin Version 2

And these edges are all bind-offs, because the cast-on is for the center square.

If Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop isn’t part of your knitting library, you should seriously consider it. See if you also find this small book a treasure of knitting information.

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I may have a marketing connection to a brand, topic or product listed on the website. Through the use of affiliate links contained herein, I may collect fees from purchases made.

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Do you closely follow knitting instructions?

Okay, I confess: my tendency is to knit the “perfect” item.

The first time.

Up tight knitter? Who me?

Sometimes I follow the instructions exactly. And sometimes I adapt them as I knit. Following the knitting instructions exactly is not as important to me as the finished project.

Ideally, I can try on a project while knitting, making adjustments as needed. Finishing a big project only to decide it doesn’t look right or doesn’t fit quite right — and can only be fixed by copious ripping and re-knitting — is not my idea of fun. Too much like wasting time.

There are some projects, like Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Surprise Jackets, that defy attempts to fit as you go. At least that’s my experience.

Adapting the Adult Surprise Jacket knitting instructions

A few weeks ago, I started my first adult surprise jacket (asj) using hand spun wool.

Adult Surprise Jacket on needles

After completing two baby surprise jackets (bsj), I felt ready to tackle this project.  This link details my adventures with the knitting instructions for my first bsj.

I did the math, and decided to try the wider sleeves. I couldn’t find any examples of the wider sleeves, and it just “felt right.”  The wider sleeves added over 30 stitches to each row.

ASJ still on needles

Folded ASJ on needles

The surprise jackets are interesting and challenging simultaneously. I’m just beginning to understand how they are constructed as I knit.  Measuring seems to involve mostly math before starting — until you finish the increases.

This pattern is especially challenging to make adjustments as you knit. If you get partway done, it could be hard to change the size without starting over.  With long rows of knitting, that could indeed be frustrating.

Thankfully, I didn’t have that particular challenge.

What did I adapt?

1. When I completed the increases, I decided the sweater was long enough without the suggested additional rows. If you look closely you’ll see the mitered corner in the front ends at the bottom of the sweater.
2. Instead of adding sleeve length, I also decided I like the wider, elbow-length sleeve reminiscent of a kimono for working around the house, especially with a sweater underneath.
   

   ASJ knit with wider sleeve

3. I opted for an I-cord edge without buttons.So no buttonholes to calculate and no buttons to sew on!
4. I bound off the shoulder seams in a different color, and ended up doing some sewing to get it to look right.

With long rows requiring a 57 inch circular needle, it really doesn’t matter if the row is off by a stitch or two. Of course, it’s nice to have an exact count, sort of like winning at solitaire.

After some delays in the knitting which had nothing to do with the pattern, it’s finally finished!

ASJ Front knit with adapted knitting instructions

ASJ Back knit with adapted knitting instructions

Subscribe now to The Knitting Yarn to get your free knitting patterns.

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Sprucey Lucy Knee High Socks

free knitting pattern available from Wendy Knits.

"Baby" enjoying his new sweater

Follow-up to this post.

Participating in Wordless Wednesday.  Well, it’s almost wordless!

Well, after 6 months — 4 of which they sat on a shelf waiting for me to be inspired to knit them again — I finally finished my knee socks!

They are my first very own hand knit knee socks, custom-made using several sock knitting instructions which I combined. I do like the toe-up knitting instructions, because the sock can be tried on as you’re knitting. That way, changes can be made immediately and — at least theoretically — keeps the frogging to a minimum!

Fairisle knee socks from multiple knitting instructions

The patterned sock yarn is: Austermann Step Sock Yarn in the Sunset Fairisle colorway. The Fairisle pattern is in the dyeing of the yarn, so it’s like a self-striping yarn: except better! It’s soft, treated with Jojoba and Aloe Vera extracts. While knitting I noticed how soft it is on the hands. According to the label, the extracts and softening power last through hundreds of washings. I’m thinking they’ll be very helpful in the dry winter weather!

The solid toes, heels, and cuff are Wildfoote Luxury Sock Yarn in Temple Turquoise. The Fairisle colors really seem to “pop” with the contrast of the solid yarn sections.

There’s enough yarn left over, that one skein of the Austermann Step Sock Yarn probably would have been enough without the contrast.  Wow! One skein for a pair of knee socks for size 10-1/2 feet!

Yarn bought according to knitting instructions & now left over from several knitting projects

So, when the knitting instructions are complete, what to do with the left over yarn? Options include:

• Saving the yarn for later because sometimes the right project just doesn’t immediately jump out. Especially after finishing a big project, sometimes another yarn is calling to be knit, yes?
• Starting a project, and adding yarn as you get it from future as yet unspecified projects. This option adds the risk of maybe having an incomplete project that will end up either incomplete for a long time, or possibly being unraveled. Of course, if you like to work this way, it’s something to consider. This also could run the risk of adding to your yarn stash if you end up buying yarn to finish a project you can’t stand to remain incomplete another minute.
• Finding a small project now. After finishing a big project, the idea of a project that can be completed in an evening or two before starting another larger project has a certain appeal.

Needless to say, I decided to start looking for a small project. And one found me:

Tiny mitten from leftover sock yarn

A tiny mitten! Jumping in without a pattern is always an adventure in itself. After making enough mittens to have memorized the basics of a mitten, it was easy. The Fairisle yarn makes a lovely pattern in stockinette stitch, without a great deal of thought. And since the mitten needed to look like a mitten but not necessarily fit anyone or anything, it’s a very forgiving project.

Now what to do with it?

It could be a doll mitten, although I quit playing with dolls some years ago.

How about a Christmas mitten? It — or perhaps a pair with an attached cord — would make a neat homemade ornament for a Christmas tree. And, it could also be used on the outside of a package as decoration: to be used by the recipient as an ornament.

Would you like a copy of the pattern? Subscribe in the box on the sidebar to get your free knitting bag pattern immediately, and you’ll get my Tiny Mittens pattern a couple of days later.

Recently I bought a book on knitting dog sweaters, glanced at it, and set it aside.

When you live in the South — and it’s the middle of summer — it’s hard to get excited about knitting sweaters, even for dogs!

Then I learned a dear friend recently became suddenly critically ill. It was quite a shock to learn of her crisis, even after she’d started her recovery.  I knew she had a dog that she calls her “baby.”  So, I casually asked her if her baby could use a new sweater.  The answer was a very excited “Yes!”

Well, I figured that was as good a reason as any to try out a new knitting pattern. Not that I need to look that hard for an excuse to knit — or to try out knitting instructions. So, after she sent me her color preferences and her baby’s measurements, I started looking at the patterns.

The book, Dogs in Knits: 17 Projects for Our Best Friends had good reviews. This book, unlike some others, gives different sizes and gauges for each pattern.  That’s a big help when you need patterns that actually fit a variety of dog breeds and sizes.

Surprisingly, the sizes of the sweaters seem large. The smallest is for a dog with a 14 inch chest. No sweaters for tiny dogs!

If you’re expecting 17 sweaters, though, you’ll be disappointed. There’s an afghan, a blanket, a pillow topper, and a Christmas stocking. The book provides lots of ideas, and I think I’ll get use out of the book.

As I was looking at patterns, I decided to try the Peruvian-inspired coat. Of course my friend’s baby is shorter than the smallest pattern, although the chest circumference was right. And my knitting gauge, as usual, is okay for the stitches per inch but I have fewer rows per inch. If I followed the pattern as written, it would be way too long.

I decided to start knitting anyway, and figure out how to adjust the pattern along the way.

Starting the dog sweater

The original pattern has alternating large stripes with dogs and narrow stripes of color.

So, how easy was my solution?

• Very easy: just take out the narrow stripes!

Still, I wouldn’t recommend starting out trying to customize a three dimensional sweater for a dog. Because I’ve knit sweaters for people — as well as for a few dogs — I had no problem sizing the pattern to fit my friend’s baby.  However, this sweater is definitely not for a beginner, although others in the book are. The color stranding is at least intermediate, and it’s knit on circular needles.

As my sister — the dog expert — suggested, I also put the ties on the top of the sweater not underneath the chin as the pattern shows. Why? Because on the dog’s back they’re less likely to drag on the ground and are harder for the dog to chew.

Here’s my final version:

Peruvian sweater after customizing knitting instructions

Epilogue: After my friend and her baby received the sweater, she called to thank me.  Even her baby said his thank you over the phone!

It’s very rewarding to have people (and pets) truly love something you had fun designing. I can hardly wait for a picture and to share it!

Ready for inspiration? Check out Dogs in Knits: 17 Projects for Our Best Friends by Judith L. Swartz and click here to buy now!

When I read about a bride’s purse in Knitting Daily, I knew I wanted to try its free knitting instructions.

However, I didn’t have enough white crochet thread, and the correct size needles were in use for socks I started a while back. I did, however, have a purse I’d started which was sitting on a shelf. Sitting alone because I found it too hard to knit. Not wanting to give up on crochet thread, the Knitting Daily pattern was just what I needed to try again.

Knitting with 2 strands crochet thread

I like the way the two colors of crochet cotton blended, and wanted to use them. The new purse started by ripping the “old” purse, and reusing the crochet thread.

So how did I customize the knitting instructions?

• By changing the colors
• By changing the thread from one strand to two and adjusting the sizes of the needles accordingly
• By stopping when I was satisfied with the size of the purse
• By creating my own edging
• By changing the crocheted cord to an I-cord

After ripping and winding crochet thread, I started my new purse. On size 3 double pointed needles since that’s what I had. When I needed a circular needle, I used my size 4 because I don’t have a size 3. And I wanted to make the purse now, not wait until I could purchase a circular needle.

So that’s what I did. Using the larger needles, because I have 2 strands instead of the one from the pattern. It also makes a larger purse, of course. My solution was to only do two repeats of the lace before adding my own edging.

And, I didn’t want to crochet the tie. Instead, I decided to try Elizabeth Zimmermann’s I-cord, from her book Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop.

The result is a purse large enough for a cell phone, small wallet and keys. I added a lining made of two circles of fabric sewn rights sides together then turned and slip stitched in place. This has the right side of the lining peek through the lace and the right side of the lining also be inside the purse. The lining doesn’t show up well on my pictures.

Here is the final result:

Lacy purse

For the edging, I made up my own. A close-up:

Lacy purse edging

And, yes, that’s an I-cord cast off also from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop.
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Knitting with crochet cotton isn’t so hard. My earlier attempt at creating my own knitting instructions for a purse was complicated by knitting too few stitches on the circular needle.

All in all, it’s not so hard to customize the knitting instructions for a lace purse.

Want more detailed instructions for customizing a knit bag? Grab your free custom bag pattern by subscribing today!

Baby Surprise Jacket before dye

I used Kool Aid and food coloring for a nontoxic dye, and am happy with the results:

Baby Surprise Jacket after dye

Earlier this year, I knit a bag.

It’s made of hand spun wool, which I dyed with Kool-Aid.  Two packages of black cherry, and one of orange. The original color was grayish brown. Or was it brownish gray?

The bag is knit on circular needles, because I decided to minimize the number of seams.  It has one seam at the bottom.  And even that one I closed without sewing.

How?

Well, more on that later.

The pattern is actually fairly simple. I used a combination of garter stitch and stockinette stitch. Stockinette because, well it’s easy on circular needles.  You just knit every stitch.  And garter, because I wanted a flat not rolled top and a thicker bottom.

The bag ends when it does because, well I was tired of knitting garter stitch on circular needles. Hey, I thought it’s as good an excuse as any!

Garter stitch makes a nice sturdy bottom, don’t you agree?

When I made the bag, I wasn’t sure if I’d use it for a purse or a bag.  I decided to line it because, well pens and knitting needles tend to poke through the knitted fabric.  And after I finished it, I decided I like it for my knitting.

So, now I have a knitted knitting bag.

The instructions, including how I closed the bottom and my suggestions for places you could customize it are all in the pattern.

The pattern is free. You can download it here.

Here’s another view:

Or two …