Beyond the knitting instructions: How do you customize a dishcloth knitting pattern?

I’m a fan of hand knit dishcloths. Every time I use one, I’m amazed at how long they last.  And how much better they are at scrubbing than manufactured dishcloths.

Although they can be fancy with embossed-looking images, they don’t have to be. They can be as simple as garter stitch. I just finished knitting one in about three hours.

I used a pattern that’s been around for years. It’s called Grandma’s or Grandmother’s Favorite Dishcloth.

Its name suits. It’s a quick and easy knit. All you need to know is how to: cast on, knit, yarn over, decrease, and cast off.  That’s it.

It can be customized if you get tired of the basic pattern, as explained later in this post.

Grandma’s Favorite Dishcloth

Materials: Approximately 1 ounce of cotton worsted weight yarn and 1 pair of knitting needles in appropriate size.

So what’s an appropriate needle size? Whatever size you want to make the knitting as tight or as loose as you want. I knit loosely, and usually use size 5 or 6 needles. Many knitters use size 8.

Instructions:

Row 1: Cast on 4 stitches.

Row 2: Knit 2 stitches, yarn over, knit to end of row.  Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 44 stitches on your needle.

Next Row (Decrease Row): Knit 1 stitch, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit to end of row. Turn.

Repeat this row until you have 4 stitches left. Cast off.  Break yarn, and pull it through last stitch to knot. Weave in yarn ends.

Knitter’s Tip: If the dishcloth doesn’t look quite square, try gently pulling it into shape. It’s not unusual for the first and second halves to look different when the dishcloth first comes off the needles.

So what are some easy variations?

• Crocheting a Hanging Loop
  You can add a look by not breaking yarn when you get to the last stitch. Using a crochet hook, chain 8, attaching the chain to the last stitch or corner or next to the last stitch. Break yarn and weave in ends as above.
• Adding a Slipped Stitch Edging
  You can make a lovely slipped stitch edging by slipping the first stitch of each row as if to purl.  My video gives you the slipped stitch edging knitting instructions.
• Knitting in Reverse Garter Stitch
  If you want practice purling or just like to purl more than knit, you can knit the entire dishcloth in reverse garter stitch instead of garter stitch.

  To knit Grandma’s Favorite Dishcloth, the basic instructions become:
  Row 1: Cast on 4 stitches.
  Row 2: Purl 2 stitches, yarn over, purl to end of row.  Turn.
  Repeat Row 2 until you have 44 stitches on your needle.
  Next Row (Decrease Row): Purl 1 stitch, purl 2 together, yarn over, purl 2 together, purl to end of row. Turn.
  Repeat this row until you have 4 stitches left. Cast off.  Break yarn, and pull it through last stitch to knot. Weave in yarn ends.
  This post gives you more detailed reverse garter knitting instructions.

• Changing the size
  Want a larger or smaller dishcloth? Then increase to 46 or 42—or whatever sizes you want—before decreasing.
  You can even make square dishtowel by enlarging the pattern. You may however need more than one ball of yarn.
  Knitters tip: Hand knit dishtowels seem to absorb water better than store-bought ones.
• Using your imagination to customize—
  If you want to knit in colors, you can knit stripes. You may either find you have a lot of ends to weave in, or if you carry the yarn from row to row you may want to crochet a border of single crochet or knit an I-cord border to cover the yarn loops.
  If you change colors after either 2 or 4 rows the yarn carried will be short lengths. You can also make wider stripes of more rows, breaking the yarn between stripes.

So now you have the basic instructions and five easy variations.

Another variation of the garter stitch is my Garter Ripple Kitchen Set, based on an easy lace stitch called Feather and Fan.

It’s a great way to brighten up your kitchen or to practice lace knitting on a small project:

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Easter knitting instructions: Have you checked out these free knitting patterns?

The past few months, I’ve been knitting more socks.

Including my latest one:

Knitting socks includes using various knitting techniques — and different sock knitting instructions. My own adaptions, of course.

Sock knitting does lead to odds and ends of sock yarn. Too small for a large project. I just can’t bring myself to toss out perfectly good yarn. Even if it is only an ounce or less.

Periodically, I look for ways to use my stash of leftover yarn.

After a long cold winter, when the colors outside are mostly browns and grays it’s nice to pull out some colorful yarn. And spring seems the perfect time to declutter, doesn’t it?

Recently I looked at my yarn, trying to decide what to do with leftover sock yarn.

For inspiration, I checked out free Easter knitting patterns online.

The result? My article describing free online Easter knitting patterns.

I found patterns where most of the knitting instructions are for beginners or intermediate knitters.

So what are some of the advantages of knitting your own Easter basket?

• Using your stash. Always a plus, whether you’re de-cluttering or saving money. Or both!
• Saving money by making items that can be saved and reused next year. Rather than tossed in a landfill. Plus, if you’re using your own stash, you’re also saving money by not buying more yarn. At least not for this project.
• Knitting a keepsake: making happy memories now that can be relived in years to come, whenever the eggs or birds or basket are used.
• Knitting a small project can give you a break from larger or more intricate ones.
• It’s fun and colorful!

And you don’t have to knit the whole basket at once. It could be adding one or two handmade items each year can grow the basket until its completion.

Of course, you could knit an egg tree if you’re so inclined:

My preference was to start off smaller:

Happy Easter!

And happy knitting!

Beyond the knitting instructions: How important is yarn twist?

My current project is: knitting a purse.

It’s been challenging, because I’m making the pattern as I go.  Always an adventure!

And because the yarn is, well, different.

It’s rayon spun into a lace weight yarn. However, the individual fibers of the yarn slide past each other instead of staying in a twist. Plus, as I knit, they untwist.

Which means the individual fibers tend to separate. Instead of staying twisted and knitting nicely, the individual strands tend to loosen. So I don’t always catch them as I’m knitting the stitch.

When I do find them, it can be several rows later. And involve some frogging!

I am grateful I know how a lace lifeline adds to the knitting instructions.

The direction yarn is spun is is called the twist.  There’s an S-twist and a Z-twist:

The S and Z come from the slant of the yarn. S-twist, like the slant in the letter “S” slants from upper left to lower right. Z-twist, like “Z” slants from upper right to lower left.

How do you get an S-twist or a Z-twist? It depends upon whether you spin the yarn clockwise (Z-twist) or counterclockwise (S-twist).

Sometimes yarn will stay twisted if you switch from knitting with holding the yarn in your left hand to holding it your right.  Another reason to learn both ways of knitting! In this case, it doesn’t matter: the rayon yarn still unravels.

Knitter’s Tip: If you find certain yarn untwists as you knit, try knitting it by carrying the yarn in your other hand. KnittingHelp.com has video knitting instructions for the continental method (also known as the German method or pick method) and English method (American method , throw method). If that doesn’t help, sometimes the yarn can be crocheted. Crocheting may use the twist in the opposite direction.

So how important is twist and ply?

• The direction of the twist can determine if the yarn twist tightens or loosens as you knit. This can make your knitting harder or easier.
• Plying the yarn makes it thicker and stronger. Plying is taking the single plies and spinning them in the opposite direction. So, a yarn of two S-twist singles is usually plied into a 2-ply Z-twist.

And, yes it can be confusing when you first think about it. It’s second nature to spinners, though. And many knitters do eventually decide to spin their own yarns.

Have questions about spinning? This book covers spinners frequently asked questions. Whether you approach spinning as an art or a science, this book has answers. Click here to buy now!

Disclosure: I have a marketing connection to a brand, topic or product herein. Through the use of affiliate links contained herein, I may collect fees from purchases made. cmp.ly/5/kf4rlc

Are lace knitting instructions more of a challenge than you think?

Lately, my projects involve lace knitting instructions.

About a month ago, I started a what I thought would be a quick project.

It’s a small purse originally designed for a bride. I thought it would make an elegant formal bag, perhaps for a prom or another formal.

I glanced at the instructions, and the degree of difficulty according to the publisher. I thought it would be within my skill.

Well, yes it is. I did learn a few things about knitting lace I want to share, though.

Knitting Tip #1: The “finishing” may take longer than the main section.

In this case, the main part of the pattern went quickly. The edging, though that was difficult challenging.

You see, the knitting graph supplied didn’t quite explain the pattern.  After knitting and frogging the same section twice, I decided to see if I could find the same — or a similar — pattern in another source.

And there it was: in the first book I searched. Not only a similar knitters graph, but also written instructions for the knitting. Yippee!

Knitting Tip #2: If you’re new to knitting lace from a graph, look for a pattern that has both the graph and written instructions.

The main part of the purse alternates a row of lace with a row of knitting in the round. So every other row is all knit stitches. It’s nice to have a “break” in concentrating on the lace pattern.

The edging, though, had knitting and purling in all rows. Plus, the knitting switched from circular knitting in the main section to knitting back and forth on two needles in the edging. To keep straight which row was right and which wrong side, I made notes on the graph.

Knitting Tip #3: If you own the pattern, it’s okay to make your own notes on it to clarify the instructions.

And there’s nothing like frogging to make one appreciate lace lifelines!

You can see the white crochet cotton thread running through the stitches on the needle. I like to take a large eye needle and thread it with the crochet cotton, then thread it through the live stitches on the needle. This works best if you’re using circular needles: the thinner cord part of the circulars usually leaves more room for the needle and thread.

Knitter’s Tip #4: Use lace lifelines, and use them often.

Here’s a video link for lace lifeline knitting instructions (scroll down to Fixing Mistakes to find the video “Using a lifeline.”)

I have more tips, which I’ll share in a later post.

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What’s with the Long-Tail Cast-on knitting instructions?

As a child, I learned to knit.

My knitting was a mixture of: what my mother taught me, what I learned from a knitting pamphlet, and my own invention. Amazingly enough, it worked. Actually, it worked quite well. That is, until I attempted circular knitting and lace.

They were much less forgiving than knitting, purling, and even cables.

Over the past few years I’ve been seeking new ways (for me) to cast on. In retrospect my original cast-on either never made it to the knitting manuals or I remembered it wrong. Which is probably why it was so difficult challenging.

When I learned a two needle cast on by knitting the stitches on, my heart leaped. Now I could cast-on by simply knitting stitches on the needle. How cool is that?

Recently, I found the long-tail cast-on in Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop. Not only is it fast, it’s almost effortless to keep the stitches consistent and even. Once again, I’m in awe of Elizabeth’s knitting expertise.  Of course, she may not have invented this cast-on.

Its added bonus: with the cast-on, your first row of knitting is complete. Now that’s really clever!!

The pictures are a bit blurry, so the completed row may not be obvious. It’s there, though!

Here’s a video of the Long-Tail Cast-on knitting instructions.

And here’s a picture of a simple afghan square I made with the long-tail cast on:

Here’s the link for this simple afghan square’s free knitting instructions.

So, why are the long-tail cast-on knitting instructions popular?

• You can cast-on quickly.
• The stitches slip on and can be adjusted so all stitches are even without hours of practice!
• Once you finish your cast-on row, your first row is knit. So you can start with row 2: a real time saver!
• It can be started without the first stitch being a slip knot. Combined with the even stitches, this makes a very straight border.
• It’s easy to learn.

And yes, it’s already one of my favorite cast-on methods! My only question: Why didn’t I know about it before now?

Oh, and here’s my completed Log Cabin Afghan Square, and a second version.  It’s definitely faster to piece them for a quilt!

And these edges are all bind-offs, because the cast-on is for the center square.

If Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop isn’t part of your knitting library, you should seriously consider it. See if you also find this small book a treasure of knitting information.

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Beyond basic knitting instructions: Helped Haiti yet?

Have you recently had unusual challenges?

Maybe it’s been the economy. Your family. Or the weather.

So far this winter has been unusually cold here. It’s been 20 to 30 points below normal. Water frozen outside in the morning — and even the afternoon some days. This is the longest stretch of cold weather in this area in about a century. Of course, the cold weather brings it’s own challenges. Like, not one but two mice decided my dryer vent was a nice entrance into my warm house.

At least I hope it’s only two!

This week, my problems challenges became very small. The earthquake in Haiti dwarfs many concerns.

Crafters helping Haiti

If you’re  like me, your first instinct is to help. But how? And where?

Knitters and crocheters have a unique opportunity. Sure, we can donate money to appropriate places.

We can also donate our handiwork.

Ravelry has a new group that is looking for afghan squares. Knitted or crocheted. Sizes from 6 inches to 14 inches are being offered. The group even has links for knitting instructions.

I like the idea of making a square or perhaps a few and sending them. Imagine hundred or thousands of knitters and crocheters sending just one or two squares. And they can be made from your stash, or even leftovers.

The group, Hugs for Haiti, wants washable squares. It looks as though that’s the main requirement.

Here’s the first square I’m working on:

Log cabin is one of the free patterns the group links to. I like log cabin quilts, and knitting a log cabin square reminds me how much rebuilding the Haitians need to do.

If you don’t feel up to making a complex square, make a simple one.

Free garter stitch square pattern

Garter stitch is easy to make a square. Its Rule of Thumb is two rows for each stitch makes a square. So, if you cast on 10 stitches and knit 20 rows you have a square. Or approximately. Usually I need to knit a couple of rows less than twice the number I cast on when I’m knitting with acrylic or cotton. It’s still easy to make a square.

For example, if you want to make a 12 inch square and have 4 stitches per inch: cast on 48 stitches.

4 stitches / inch X  12 inches = 48 stitches

Knit approximately 48 ridges, or 96 rows. In my case, it’s 44 or 46 ridges. Bind off.

A slipped stitch edging helps the square lie flat, and more square. Here are my video knitting instructions.

Join Hugs for Haiti now: you do need to be a Ravelry member to join. Ravelry is free and well worth your time if you’re a crafter.

How do you adapt knitting instructions while knitting?

Do you closely follow knitting instructions?

Okay, I confess: my tendency is to knit the “perfect” item.

The first time.

Up tight knitter? Who me?

Sometimes I follow the instructions exactly. And sometimes I adapt them as I knit. Following the knitting instructions exactly is not as important to me as the finished project.

Ideally, I can try on a project while knitting, making adjustments as needed. Finishing a big project only to decide it doesn’t look right or doesn’t fit quite right — and can only be fixed by copious ripping and re-knitting — is not my idea of fun. Too much like wasting time.

There are some projects, like Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Surprise Jackets, that defy attempts to fit as you go. At least that’s my experience.

Adapting the Adult Surprise Jacket knitting instructions

A few weeks ago, I started my first adult surprise jacket (asj) using hand spun wool.

After completing two baby surprise jackets (bsj), I felt ready to tackle this project.  This link details my adventures with the knitting instructions for my first bsj.

I did the math, and decided to try the wider sleeves. I couldn’t find any examples of the wider sleeves, and it just “felt right.”  The wider sleeves added over 30 stitches to each row.

The surprise jackets are interesting and challenging simultaneously. I’m just beginning to understand how they are constructed as I knit.  Measuring seems to involve mostly math before starting — until you finish the increases.

This pattern is especially challenging to make adjustments as you knit. If you get partway done, it could be hard to change the size without starting over.  With long rows of knitting, that could indeed be frustrating.

Thankfully, I didn’t have that particular challenge.

What did I adapt?

1. When I completed the increases, I decided the sweater was long enough without the suggested additional rows. If you look closely you’ll see the mitered corner in the front ends at the bottom of the sweater.
2. Instead of adding sleeve length, I also decided I like the wider, elbow-length sleeve reminiscent of a kimono for working around the house, especially with a sweater underneath.
   

   ASJ knit with wider sleeve

3. I opted for an I-cord edge without buttons.So no buttonholes to calculate and no buttons to sew on!
4. I bound off the shoulder seams in a different color, and ended up doing some sewing to get it to look right.

With long rows requiring a 57 inch circular needle, it really doesn’t matter if the row is off by a stitch or two. Of course, it’s nice to have an exact count, sort of like winning at solitaire.

After some delays in the knitting which had nothing to do with the pattern, it’s finally finished!

Subscribe now to The Knitting Yarn to get your free knitting patterns.

Knitting instructions: How do you customize them for Christmas easily and quickly?

One of my earliest Christmas memories is my sister and I receiving identical knit hats from my Aunt Gerry.  They were red, with a face on the back, lovingly hand embroidered for children. Even to the google eyes. Hey, we were toddlers and thought them very cool!

Christmas is a great time to relive happy memories—and to create some new ones.

Yes, it’s great to be able to make a scarf, mittens, or even a sweater for a loved one. Especially if they actually like it!

Sometimes, though, other problems challenges crowd out the knitting time.  And even the fastest knitter needs more than an hour or two to hand knit a sweater.

This year is one of those times for me.  Even decorating is challenging.  My tree is up, and the lights are on.  And you know, for the first time in many years, it’s enough.  I’m enjoying the lights even without any ornaments.

Still, I like to add hand knit items to my Christmas—and that of those I love.

So, how can you easily create a hand-knit Christmas?

1. Knit some ornaments. They make a great addition to your tree, and can be a great way to use up leftover yarn, also being economical.  There are lots of free patterns on the Internet.  To get you started, try my free tiny mitten knitting instructions. Ornaments can even do double duty when you —
2. Knit a package decoration or even a package. Angels, stars, tiny stockings and mittens can be very cute on a package.  The recipient can enjoy them before the gift is opened, and afterwards they make a nice addition to their ornaments.  Small stockings can also be knit to fit a candy cane, roll candy, or lip balm.  A nice stocking stuffer or small inexpensive gift that still shows the recipient you took time to personalize it. Knitting Pattern Central is a great place to start looking for knitting instructions.
3. Knit dishcloths or washcloths in Christmas colors. They’re a reminder of the season, and even when not in use can make a kitchen or bath feel more like Christmas. They make a practical project for yourself, and a thoughtful gift for non-knitters.  Adding an I-cord border to some patterns is a quick way to add a second color. Cotton yarn at often less than $2 a ball remains economical, practical and easy.

Create your own ripple knit dishcloths with my Garter Ripple Kitchen Set.

Knitting Instructions: What’s an elastic loose bind off (cast off)?

When ready to bind off my first toe-up knee sock, I nearly didn’t.

The knitting instructions for my socks said to “bind off loosely.”  With other projects, I’d been able to bind off loosely using one or two tried-and-true methods. A sock was different.

No matter which method I tried, it just didn’t stretch enough to get it on around my heel, let alone over my calf.  I searched all my knitting instruction books without help.  None of them have toe-up sock, top-down hat or finger-down mitten knitting instructions.

In reviewing this, it seems to be a fairly common dilemma.  Socks need to be snug enough on the calf to not fall down, and the usual loose bind-offs, often aren’t elastic enough.

So, just how do you bind off loosely?

1. Knit more loosely as you bind off either by adjusting the tension or by substituting a larger needle for the right-hand needle. Neither gave enough stretch for socks.
2. Use a sewed bind-off, such as Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Sewn Casting-off  from Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac.   While she suggested using it for top down sweaters, again it just wasn’t quite elastic enough.
3. Knit with an elastic bind off method.  An Internet search led to Slip Slip Knit’s Miraculous Elastic Bind Off Knitting Instructions. And voila, it worked!  The link even includes nice pictures.

This bind-off has now become one of my favorites. And I can hardly wait to try it on other projects.

These socks were made with Wendy Knits’ Sprucey Lucy free knitting pattern.

For a great inexpensive reference for knitting, check out Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac. It’s full of projects for every month of the year, and manages to be both charming and informative.

Knitting instructions: my first Norwegian mitten

This week I did something I’ve always wanted to try, but never did.

You know, sometimes it’s nice to stretch yourself. While I’ve knit multiple colors of stripes, it’s only lately I’ve attempted more complicated color knitting. After I learned to knit holding one strand of yarn in my left and one in my right.

I first learned (or more accurately taught myself) to knit with the yarn in my left hand. I’ve watched folks who knit with it in their right hand — including some knitting teachers who seem to think it’s the only knitting method.

Frankly, after watching them it always looked to me as though they had to stop, hold the needles with both hands, wrap the yarn, then pick up the right hand needle to finish the stitch. It seemed to take an awful lot of concentration and seemed slow. I felt validated when watching speed knitters who knit with the yarn in their left hands. Of course I learned to multitask while knitting, reading a book, and watching TV, so I may be just a teensy bit nonobjective. Maybe.

Anyway, a while ago I decided I should learn both methods. So, I found a video, and tried it myself. No, I’m not about to completely change. It has come in handy for entrelac, and now two-stranded color knitting.

And this week I finished my first Norwegian mitten! Well, technically it’s from the tiny northern Norwegian district called Selbu, and called a Selbu mitten.

The colors are supposed to be bold, like back and white. I had brown and white, so used those.

The thumb is surprisingly comfortable. You see, I’ve often wondered how comfortable a Norwegian thumb gore would be, since I’ve almost always made side seam or normal thumb gores. Confused? Don’t be: check out my recent article on knitting instructions for mitten thumbs.

Anyway, you can see how the thumb gore (the wedge-shaped part below the thumb) interrupts the palm pattern:

And don’t miss the third Norwegian star on the thumb!

The inside of the thumb matches the palm pattern:

And, yes it is a big help to hold one color in each hand, knitting with both hands. So, I have found a very useful reason to learn to knit both ways.

My mitten is for a left hand, so now it’s on to the right hand mitten!

The pattern is from Folk Mittens:Techniques and Patterns for Handknitted Mittens by Marcia Lewandowski available here.

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