Beyond the knitting instructions: How do you customize a dishcloth knitting pattern?

I’m a fan of hand knit dishcloths. Every time I use one, I’m amazed at how long they last.  And how much better they are at scrubbing than manufactured dishcloths.

Although they can be fancy with embossed-looking images, they don’t have to be. They can be as simple as garter stitch. I just finished knitting one in about three hours.

I used a pattern that’s been around for years. It’s called Grandma’s or Grandmother’s Favorite Dishcloth.

Its name suits. It’s a quick and easy knit. All you need to know is how to: cast on, knit, yarn over, decrease, and cast off.  That’s it.

It can be customized if you get tired of the basic pattern, as explained later in this post.

Grandma’s Favorite Dishcloth

Materials: Approximately 1 ounce of cotton worsted weight yarn and 1 pair of knitting needles in appropriate size.

So what’s an appropriate needle size? Whatever size you want to make the knitting as tight or as loose as you want. I knit loosely, and usually use size 5 or 6 needles. Many knitters use size 8.

Instructions:

Row 1: Cast on 4 stitches.

Row 2: Knit 2 stitches, yarn over, knit to end of row.  Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you have 44 stitches on your needle.

Next Row (Decrease Row): Knit 1 stitch, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit to end of row. Turn.

Repeat this row until you have 4 stitches left. Cast off.  Break yarn, and pull it through last stitch to knot. Weave in yarn ends.

Knitter’s Tip: If the dishcloth doesn’t look quite square, try gently pulling it into shape. It’s not unusual for the first and second halves to look different when the dishcloth first comes off the needles.

So what are some easy variations?

• Crocheting a Hanging Loop
  You can add a look by not breaking yarn when you get to the last stitch. Using a crochet hook, chain 8, attaching the chain to the last stitch or corner or next to the last stitch. Break yarn and weave in ends as above.
• Adding a Slipped Stitch Edging
  You can make a lovely slipped stitch edging by slipping the first stitch of each row as if to purl.  My video gives you the slipped stitch edging knitting instructions.
• Knitting in Reverse Garter Stitch
  If you want practice purling or just like to purl more than knit, you can knit the entire dishcloth in reverse garter stitch instead of garter stitch.

  To knit Grandma’s Favorite Dishcloth, the basic instructions become:
  Row 1: Cast on 4 stitches.
  Row 2: Purl 2 stitches, yarn over, purl to end of row.  Turn.
  Repeat Row 2 until you have 44 stitches on your needle.
  Next Row (Decrease Row): Purl 1 stitch, purl 2 together, yarn over, purl 2 together, purl to end of row. Turn.
  Repeat this row until you have 4 stitches left. Cast off.  Break yarn, and pull it through last stitch to knot. Weave in yarn ends.
  This post gives you more detailed reverse garter knitting instructions.

• Changing the size
  Want a larger or smaller dishcloth? Then increase to 46 or 42—or whatever sizes you want—before decreasing.
  You can even make square dishtowel by enlarging the pattern. You may however need more than one ball of yarn.
  Knitters tip: Hand knit dishtowels seem to absorb water better than store-bought ones.
• Using your imagination to customize—
  If you want to knit in colors, you can knit stripes. You may either find you have a lot of ends to weave in, or if you carry the yarn from row to row you may want to crochet a border of single crochet or knit an I-cord border to cover the yarn loops.
  If you change colors after either 2 or 4 rows the yarn carried will be short lengths. You can also make wider stripes of more rows, breaking the yarn between stripes.

So now you have the basic instructions and five easy variations.

Another variation of the garter stitch is my Garter Ripple Kitchen Set, based on an easy lace stitch called Feather and Fan.

It’s a great way to brighten up your kitchen or to practice lace knitting on a small project:

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Easter knitting instructions: Have you checked out these free knitting patterns?

The past few months, I’ve been knitting more socks.

Including my latest one:

Knitting socks includes using various knitting techniques — and different sock knitting instructions. My own adaptions, of course.

Sock knitting does lead to odds and ends of sock yarn. Too small for a large project. I just can’t bring myself to toss out perfectly good yarn. Even if it is only an ounce or less.

Periodically, I look for ways to use my stash of leftover yarn.

After a long cold winter, when the colors outside are mostly browns and grays it’s nice to pull out some colorful yarn. And spring seems the perfect time to declutter, doesn’t it?

Recently I looked at my yarn, trying to decide what to do with leftover sock yarn.

For inspiration, I checked out free Easter knitting patterns online.

The result? My article describing free online Easter knitting patterns.

I found patterns where most of the knitting instructions are for beginners or intermediate knitters.

So what are some of the advantages of knitting your own Easter basket?

• Using your stash. Always a plus, whether you’re de-cluttering or saving money. Or both!
• Saving money by making items that can be saved and reused next year. Rather than tossed in a landfill. Plus, if you’re using your own stash, you’re also saving money by not buying more yarn. At least not for this project.
• Knitting a keepsake: making happy memories now that can be relived in years to come, whenever the eggs or birds or basket are used.
• Knitting a small project can give you a break from larger or more intricate ones.
• It’s fun and colorful!

And you don’t have to knit the whole basket at once. It could be adding one or two handmade items each year can grow the basket until its completion.

Of course, you could knit an egg tree if you’re so inclined:

My preference was to start off smaller:

Happy Easter!

And happy knitting!

How can vintage knitting patterns help you?

Yesterday’s mail brought me a treat:

I first learned about Piecework Magazine’s annual historical knitting issue while reading this Peacefully Knitting blog post about vintage knitting, which convinced me to subscribe. I called first to be sure they were still offering the historical issue with paid subscriptions. Which they were. Phew!

Historical knitting is intriguing. It’s interesting to get a glimpse of how our ancestors dressed and lived. While they’re now silent, their knitting can still give us insight into their lives. I grew up with stories of one of my great-grandmother who supposedly kept all 12 of her children in handmade clothes, including knitted socks and stockings. She must have been very fast, very busy, or both!

Historical knitting is a new adventure, and I eagerly awaited my copy.

Which I’m happy to report did not disappoint me.

This issue of Piecework Magazine has patterns including: a new stitch pattern from Barbara Walker featured on the  cover. Inside there’s a treasure of articles on knitting. Perhaps you’ll also be drawn to the story of knitting in Jewish Lithuania during World War II. Once again, the resilience of the Jewish people and the “Greatest Generation” is inspiring. Today’s struggles with knitting become very small when compared to knitting in a forest while fighting — and hiding from — Nazis.

There’s a pattern based on a medieval mitten, and even an article on how modern theater companies use hand knitted items as costumes. There are more patterns and articles, which you can discover for yourself in the issue.

So, how do vintage knitting patterns help a modern knitter?

• Patterns can give insight into the lives of the folks who knit and used the finished piece.
• The stories behind the patterns — if you can discover them — can be inspiring, funny, or even just a brief respite from today’s news.
• Patterns can be used to create new knitted articles. One that reminds you of the story, or one to share — perhaps with someone for which it holds special meaning.
• Vintage patterns often use techniques not usually used by modern knitters. They can be a good way to practice something new, and to expand your skills.
• Patterns can be used as templates to create your own unique projects, like this example of a fleecy muff inspired by vintage knitting:
  

While I haven’t yet decided which project from this issue I’m going to knit first, I did finish my latest project:

More about this in the next post.

Meanwhile you can get your own copy of Piecework Magazine’s Fourth Annual Historical Knitting Issue here: Buy now.

Disclosure: I have a marketing connection to a brand, topic or product herein. Through the use of affiliate links contained herein, I may collect fees from purchases made. cmp.ly/5/kf4rlc

What are easy fingerless mitten knitting instructions?

I’m typing while wearing one fingerless mitten.

Why?

Well, my fingers were cold and I decided to experiment. I was curious to know how fast I’d notice a difference between the two hands, I decided to try just one.

In less than 10 seconds I noticed an improvement in the hand wearing the mitten. Wow! What a surprise! I always thought they’d warm the hands but not the fingers. Now if I could just knit that fast.

While I like mittens and gloves, fingerless ones are better sometimes. For example, when you’re working at a keyboard, wearing regular mittens make typing impossible. Most gloves are cumbersome — at best. If your fingers don’t slip off the keys while wearing them, gloves are often bulky or just don’t feel right.

Fingerless mittens or gloves solve these problems.  They allow you to use the keyboard or mouse on a computer comfortably and don’t get in your way.

What’s the difference between fingerless gloves and fingerless mittens? While I don’t have an official answer from the Fashion Gurus, my take is that fingerless gloves have four openings for individual fingers. Their length can be as short as one or two rows, or go all the way to the fingertips.  Fingerless mittens, on the other hand, have a single opening for four fingers. And they’re definitely faster to knit!

While fingerless glove knitting instructions can be complex and best suited for an experienced knitter, fingerless mittens can be quick and easy. Yes, for beginners, too!

So what are the steps for knitting Easy Garter Stitch Fingerless Mittens?

1. Check the gauge. The gauge for this pattern is 3.5 stitches per inch in garter stitch. I used Caron’s One Pound Yarn in Sunflower (yellow) and Royalty (blue). It’s a worsted weight acrylic and knits up soft. I used size 9 needles.

2. Measure your hand. Using a tape measure or even a piece of yarn, measure around your palm above the thumb.

3. Cast on:

• 6.5-inch hand = 22 stitches
• 7-inch hand = 24 stitches
• 7.5-inch hand = 26 stitches
• 8-inch hand = 28 stitches
• 8.5 inch hand = 30 stitches

Knitting Tip: Check the size as you knit. It’s amazing how many times the knitting can vary once you actually cast on the rows.  Although mittens are fairly forgiving, it’s still easier to make adjustments early in the knitting rather than after the mitten is almost finished.

4. Knitting pattern:

Row 1: Slip first stitch as if to purl. Knit across rest of row. Turn.

Repeat Row 1 for desired length from cuff to top of mitten.

Change colors to add stripes if you wish.  I changed colors on the wrong side after four rows of blue and two of yellow:

Slipping the first stitch as if to purl makes a slipped edge garter stitch, which I’ve explained further in my free video knitting instructions.

5. Bind off loosely with your favorite method. Break yarn.

6. Sew up the side seam, leaving an opening for the thumb. (Hint: Trying on the mitten after sewing up part of the seam helps you place the thumb opening, customizing its fit!)

7. Weave in the yarn ends.

While you can add color by knitting stripes, another easy method is called mosaic knitting.  You carry only one color at a time and can make interesting patterns with it:

This particular pattern makes a thicker mitten. Which is probably why I decided to make a pair!

My PDF pattern for Easy Two-Color Mosaic Fingerless Mittens is now available on Ravelry.

Disclosure: I have a marketing connection to a brand, topic or product herein. Through the use of affiliate links contained herein, I may collect fees from purchases made. cmp.ly/5/kf4rlc

How easy is it to customize knitting instructions for a dog sweater?

Recently I bought a book on knitting dog sweaters, glanced at it, and set it aside.

When you live in the South — and it’s the middle of summer — it’s hard to get excited about knitting sweaters, even for dogs!

Then I learned a dear friend recently became suddenly critically ill. It was quite a shock to learn of her crisis, even after she’d started her recovery.  I knew she had a dog that she calls her “baby.”  So, I casually asked her if her baby could use a new sweater.  The answer was a very excited “Yes!”

Well, I figured that was as good a reason as any to try out a new knitting pattern. Not that I need to look that hard for an excuse to knit — or to try out knitting instructions. So, after she sent me her color preferences and her baby’s measurements, I started looking at the patterns.

The book, Dogs in Knits: 17 Projects for Our Best Friends had good reviews. This book, unlike some others, gives different sizes and gauges for each pattern.  That’s a big help when you need patterns that actually fit a variety of dog breeds and sizes.

Surprisingly, the sizes of the sweaters seem large. The smallest is for a dog with a 14 inch chest. No sweaters for tiny dogs!

If you’re expecting 17 sweaters, though, you’ll be disappointed. There’s an afghan, a blanket, a pillow topper, and a Christmas stocking. The book provides lots of ideas, and I think I’ll get use out of the book.

As I was looking at patterns, I decided to try the Peruvian-inspired coat. Of course my friend’s baby is shorter than the smallest pattern, although the chest circumference was right. And my knitting gauge, as usual, is okay for the stitches per inch but I have fewer rows per inch. If I followed the pattern as written, it would be way too long.

I decided to start knitting anyway, and figure out how to adjust the pattern along the way.

The original pattern has alternating large stripes with dogs and narrow stripes of color.

So, how easy was my solution?

• Very easy: just take out the narrow stripes!

Still, I wouldn’t recommend starting out trying to customize a three dimensional sweater for a dog. Because I’ve knit sweaters for people — as well as for a few dogs — I had no problem sizing the pattern to fit my friend’s baby.  However, this sweater is definitely not for a beginner, although others in the book are. The color stranding is at least intermediate, and it’s knit on circular needles.

As my sister — the dog expert — suggested, I also put the ties on the top of the sweater not underneath the chin as the pattern shows. Why? Because on the dog’s back they’re less likely to drag on the ground and are harder for the dog to chew.

Here’s my final version:

Epilogue: After my friend and her baby received the sweater, she called to thank me.  Even her baby said his thank you over the phone!

It’s very rewarding to have people (and pets) truly love something you had fun designing. I can hardly wait for a picture and to share it!

For more inspiration, check out Dogs in Knits: 17 Projects for Our Best Friends by Judith L. Swartz.

How many different knitting instructions to knit a sock?

Awhile ago, I started a pair of socks.

Actually, they’re the first pair I’ve ever made for myself. And I wanted them to both fit, and to be knee socks.

I like knee socks. When wearing pants,they often hike up when I sit down, and like to still have my leg covered. Recently I’m finding it harder to get knee socks in the stores or even online. So, I decided to make it myself. Many sock patterns either end just above the ankle, or seem to think calves are straight up and down. Results: they don’t fit.  Besides, after spending the time knitting a pair of socks, I’m not ready to have them sit in a drawer.

The problem is, I’ve had trouble finding a pattern that explains it all. I like the toe-up socks, because I can try one on as I knit, making adjustments as necessary. For a novice sock knitter, that’s important. And I have a high instep, so need to include that adjustment. Then I wanted a reinforced heel stitch, plus the adjustment for a calf diameter larger than my ankle. I also wanted a ribbed pattern because I felt it would hug my leg better, and make up for any minor miscalculations.

Finally, I wanted a non-binding cast off. Casting off regularly results in a tight band, actually too tight to get over my calf.

So, how many different knitting instructions and knitting patterns did I use for knitting socks?

1. Starting with WendyKnit’s Sport Weight Toe-up Gusset Heel Sock free knitting instructions. My gauge was closer to this even though I used sock weight yarn.
2. Using my own method to cast on the toe stitches. Why? Because the other methods I found just weren’t right. The stitches were to tight to knit, the method too complicated, or one even seemed like it would work better with three hands not two!
3. Ribbing by using the free 1940s pattern for Spiral Bed Socks knitting instructions.
4. Adjusting the gusset for a high foot arch with WendyKnit’s knitting instructions for a high instep.
5. Knitting an old-fashioned reinforced heel with the stocking heel stitch knitting instructions.
6. Adding stitches for the calf increase. Rather than using some complicated calculations I found online, I decided to try increasing two stitches every 7 rounds, which is when the repeat changes. My plan was to keep checking the fit and adjust as needed. It fits fine!
7. Creating my own cast-off, which may or may not wear well. I’ll let you know.

And the result, is:

I opted not to make a separate cuff at the top. The ribbing seems to hold it fine for now. I’m happy with sock as is.

Now to finish the second one!

For more free patterns, check out my Free Goodies Page.

What do you do when knitting instructions don’t work?

A few days ago, I started two knitting projects, with patterns I haven’t used before.

Only one had a knitting gauge; the other one’s knitting instructions were well — pithy.

I think of myself as an intermediate to advanced knitter. Usually I can figure out the knitting instructions as I go. This time, however, both patterns presented challenges. And after a few inches, I realized they weren’t going well. Time to restart.

So, I frogged the knitting. You know, ripped out the stitches. [Everyone say it quickly: rip it, rip it, rip it! ]

And the result is:

At one point I would have grieved for the lost stitches. Now, I look at the yarn as recyclable, and ready for the same project, or a new one.

With time, I’ve become convinced that sometimes the instructions are wrong. And sometimes the designer just doesn’t knit the same way I do. Which is okay, after all we’re all individuals.  Which I suspect is one reason knitting is so comforting. In a world that wants to make us all fit into round holes, it’s nice to find a place where the square peg can, well just be a square peg.

And you know, it could easily be me. It’s just possible with the recent extreme weather we’ve had, and some personal and professional distractions that I didn’t concentrate enough on the knitting instructions to get them right. And you know, that’s okay too.

Knitting can be challenging, but it should always, always be fun. When it stops being fun, that’s the time to put down the knitting needles and do something else. Whether you come back in a few minutes or a few days or longer, it doesn’t matter. I suspect though that once you find the rhythm of the needles —what some call “the zone” — you’ll be back.

Just make sure it stays fun.

have you grabbed your free knitting bag pattern yet? If not, why not get it now while you’re thinking about it? Just subscribe on the right sidebar of TheKnittingYarn blog. And please, let me know how you like or don’t like the instructions!

Knitting instructions: How do you cast on loosely?

When are knitting instructions like a puzzle?

It’s with some amusement I made my first Baby Surprise Jacket (BSJ).

Most knitting patterns let you see the garment as it’s being made. Sometimes, as in the case of knitting a hat on circular needles, socks from the toe up, or even a sweater in flat pieces you can try on the garments as you work, customizing as needed. Even when knitting a sweater in flat pieces, you can still check your measurements as you go.

The BSJ though is different.

It’s more of a puzzle than most knitted garments. And it uses one of my favorite stitches, garter stitch. Here you can read garter stitch knitting instructions.

Here are my results of following the pattern:

It hardly looks like a jacket in progress. I stand awe of Elizabeth Zimmermann’s genius. Both in creating the BSJ, and in writing its knitting instructions.

As I followed her simple yet complete instructions, I kept checking to be sure I was right. You see, the original knitting instructions are, well, brief. They’re not given line by line. Which can be a bit disconcerting if you’re used to more complete instructions. By the way, line by line knitting instructions for the BSJ are available through a new printing of the pattern by Schoolhouse Press.

You may find, like me, the easiest way to keep the stitches straight is to simply count the symmetrical stitches on each end. As you can see, the folded jacket worked:

After knitting this far, it was apparent I’d run out of purple before I could finish the jacket. So, I ripped out most of the last stripe and redid it. As sometimes occurs, I also modified the pattern. Instead of buttons, I opted for no buttons or buttonholes. My buttons just didn’t look right.

Currently, I’m considering a zipper down the front. Of course, I’m reserving the right to go frogging, and redo the last few rows with buttons. Should I find the perfect ones, of course!

And while, yes I can be precise with instructions, I also enjoy the opportunities for exercising creativity in less precise instructions. How about you?

Check out more fiber artists and their projects at Fiber Arts Friday.

How can knitting dishcloths be challenging?

When you’re bored with knitting the same old pattern, maybe it’s time to try something more challenging …

Like Garterlac!

This is my first attempt:

Yes, it’s a work in progress. If you like the challenge of entrelac, but find the stockinette (stocking) version too flat or like both the front and back to look woven, you might like garterlac. Like garter stitch, it’s a nice thickness for dishes.  And dishcloths make a nice practical square to try out a new pattern.

It’s not hard to envision using garterlac for a scarf, an afghan, or a pillow top.

If garterlac is more challenging than you want to attempt your first time out, you might consider this dishcloth:

It’s a smaller version of the baby blanket in Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitting Workshop. I started with 14 stitches. It has a woven seam, which may not suit everyone for a dishcloth.  Still, it’s a good way to try out the pattern, without making an entire blanket.

Still too complex? Well, you could try the Mitered Scrubby, substituting one strand of yarn and casting on 40 stitches, or the number for the size you want.

Most knitters are familiar with the Diagonal Dishcloth Pattern, also often known as Grandma’s Dishcloth, or some variation of that name. It’s actually garter stitch worked on the bias. And very good practice for garter stitch, increases and decreases.

My version is knit on size 7 needles or size for gauge you like.

Cast on 3 stitches
Row 1: Knit 1, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over, knit 1
Row 2: Knit 5
Row 3: Knit 1, yarn over, knit 3, yarn over, knit 1
Row 4: Knit 7

Continue in garter stitch, to increase one stitch each odd row just after first and before last stitch. Knit all stitches in even rows.
When side edges measure desired size (35 stitches on row in the one I knitted) begin decrease rows:

SKP = Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch, pass slip stitch over knit stitch

Odd Rows: Knit 1, SKP, Knit to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1
Even Rows: Knit all stitches

Bind off when row has 3 stitches.  Finish off, leaving an end long enough to weave in. Weave in ends.

Tip: You can vary where the increases and decreases are placed, such as knit 3 yarn over, knit to last 3 stitches, yarn over, knit last three stitches. Similarly, the decreases would be placed after the first 3 knit stitches and before the last 3. This keeps the edges consistent.

And of course, there’s always easy garter stitch.

The cotton worsted weight yarn is Sugar ‘n Cream Bronze Blue Culinary Colors-3 oz.

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